Ok, I’ll admit it, I’ve been very slack, not posting more of Italy, but MKR NZ and Australia were calling.
So, after a great time in Rome we caught the train to the hell hole called Civitevecchio to catch the ferry across to Sardinia.
Note to everyone; avoid Civitevecchio at all costs, it’s a horrible place, I’d fly in from Rome if I were you, it’ll be worth every penny…..oh well, error on our part.
Anyway, luckily we’d thought ahead and organised ourselves a picnic for the day trip across; Buffalo Mozzarella, Bocconcini, Olives, Prosciutto, Bresaola, Preserved Tuna Fillets, Stuffed Capsicums, Cherry Tomatoes and Bread, we also bartered in the Campo di Fiori for a particularly kitsch bag to hold our goodies, all pictured below
Seriously, we were the envy of everyone on board!
Sardinia, it has to be said, is a very beautiful and not especially touristy island. Waking up on the first morning and exploring our little town of Porto Rotondo, we felt we’d landed in paradise. The views, the beaches, the dry stone rock walls everywhere, and the utterly moreish Sardinian bread, it’s like a thin, crispy cross between filo and pita and perfect with butter and vegemite!
I’d been assured driving in Sardinia is nothing like the mainland, and so we hired a car, I recommend it, it’s the only way to see this wonderful island.
Anyway, back to food. I’d heard about a restaurant where you sit and watch the sunset, and where they have wood fired roast porchetta, so we headed there asap.
It’s called Lu Stazzu, in Porto Rotondo, and it’s magical.
When you arrive you’re shown to your table, perhaps because I had 3 very lovely 20 something girls with me, we got prime position overlooking the sunset. You’re then taken to a courtyard, where the centrepiece is a big open fire with many many porchetta roasting away. In front of the oven, a long table covered in platters of local salami, pancetta, and big wheels of the Sardinian sheep cheeses, from fresh to 10 years old. The platters are lined with the local myrtle leaves, from which they also make the Sardinian digestive called Mirto. AND, to wash this gorgeous antipasti down, jugs of local white and red……we were in heaven.
Then you return to your table, gawk some more at the view, take selfies, eat Sardinian bread, drink Sardinian wine and then out comes the pasta course….WOW
There’s a traditional Sardinian pasta called Culurgiones, remember this name, you’re going to want to eat A LOT of this one; it’s pockets of pasta dough filled with potato, ricotta and mint, served this time with a brown butter sauce, I think we fought over this dish, it’s amazing!
(not a great photo but you get the picture)
and we thought we were getting full, but it turns out we were wrong!
Luckily the waiter had taken a shine to my diner companions, because we really needed the Mirto digestive he shouted us, as he brought out dessert.
We thought we were full, no really this time we are we agreed, BUT, it was fresh fresh fresh ricotta, drizzled with local honey, and it was light as a feather fried pockets of pasta filled with ricotta and more honey, so we ate it.